LOVE & CARE
Cashmere is a very fine and soft natural fibre obtained from the undercoat of the cashmere goat (carpa hircus). Cashmere wool has been processed into high-quality textiles since around 1000 b.c. and was the cloth of kings.
The highest quality wool comes from Inner Mongolia, where the fine undercoat (duvet) grows particularly dense at temperatures down to -40° Celsius (for example in the Gobi desert). It has a diameter of 15 – 19 micrometers and is still considered one of the most expensive natural fibers in the world.
During the fur change in spring the animals are combed out. Approximately 150 grams of the fine fluff are obtained per animal and year. The “annual output” of three to four goats is needed to make a jumper. By way of comparison: the shearing of one single sheep produces enough wool to produce three to four jumpers. That is why the production of cashmere and a cashmere sweater is so much more expensive than the production of a sheep’s wool sweater.
Cashmere is known for its warming and climate-balancing characteristics and it is particularly important to read the washing label before washing cashmere. If the garment is suitable for the washing machine, it should be washed in the wool program between lukewarm and 40°C with a special wool launder. Cashmere should not be tumble-dried and should only be ironed and steamed at medium heat. Use a wool comb for pilling!
- Machine washable at 30 – 40°C
- Do not bleach
- Dry flat in the shade
- Drying only at moderate temperature
- Iron at medium temperature
- Do not dry clean
Silk has been gained from the cocoon of the silkworm for more than 5000 years. An undamaged cocoon can produce a continuous filament of up to 900 m (the protein from the cocoon of the silkworm is the only continuous fibre found in nature). In conventional silk production, the caterpillars do not survive the process, but are killed by heat. In the so called “Peace Silk” the cocoon is sliced so that the finished butterfly can slip before the cocoon is thrown into hot water.
Washing silk is a challenge! The best method is not necessarily by hand, especially if the care symbol recommends cleaning: prints can bleed out and the silk can become brittle and fragile. You should never bleach silk or put it in the tumble dryer. Do not iron silk except at low temperature, preferably from the inside. Consider how incredibly fine this silk fibre is and stress it as little as possible.
- delicate wash cycle only
- Do not bleach
- Not suitable for tumble drying
- Iron at low temperature
- Dry cleaning: any solvent except trichloroethylene
- gentle drying
We use pig skins for our leather fringes. Pigs have been farmed for thousands of years and slaughtered for food production. Unfortunately, nowadays only the meat is often further processed and the rest of the animal is thrown away.
We obtain our leather from a German leather merchant right from the very beginning and have it trimmed to fringes by a Bavarian furrier on Lake Tegernsee.
Leather is a natural product and should be cared for just as one takes care of one’s own skin. Leather, especially vegetable tanned leather, is sensitive to wetness, light and dirt. It can be made slightly more durable and resistant by regular greasing or the use of care products such as impregnating spray. However, not all types of leather are compatible with the use of such products, so they should be tried out in a non-visible area before applying the visible parts.
Always pay attention to professional leather cleaning. The most compatible is the so-called F cleaning, which is however rarely used. This is why P cleaning is often chosen, but this can be too aggressive for some types of leather.
- No machine wash
- Do not bleach
- Leather cleaning F
- Keep in a safe place
Cotton has been cultivated and used since around 6000 BC for the production of textiles.
The raw material consists of the seed fibers of the ripe cotton fruits. These fibers consist of 95% cellulose and may be up to 4 cm long. Cotton is grown in monocultures and consumes a lot of water. You should therefore pay attention to the origin, some certificates clarify about sustainable cultivation, such as the “GOTS” label, labelling “kbA”, “Fairtrade” or the “IVN” certificate.
Cotton is considered robust, but feels pleasant on the skin. Garments are breathable, durable and can be washed often.
- Machine wash at 40°C
- Do not bleach
- Ironing at medium temperature
- dry cleaning: any solvent other than trichloroethylene
- Not suitable for tumble dryers
Please follow the care instructions carefully and choose the appropriate washing programme. If the washing symbol is crossed out, you should take this seriously!
If washing is allowed, it is best to always wash the clothes on the left and not overload the washing machine. Modern detergents are very effective, but can damage the fibres and pollute the environment. Natural materials are often washed with natural laundry detergents – pay attention to high-quality products that are as chemical-free as possible and follow their individual instructions for use and dosage. Less is often more! We prefer the drying in the open air, even if the washing instructions allow the tumble dryer. Drying can damage the fibres and also pollutes the environment unnecessarily!
One thing is for sure: it will become dry anyhow! Better not use softeners: our materials are of the highest quality and do not need to be washed synthetically “softer”! Nature will appreciate it!
In classic textile cleaning, water is replaced by a solvent. The frequently used term for “dry” cleaning refers only to the fact that the solvents are anhydrous. The solvents used today are hydrocarbon solvents (KWL) and perchloroethylene (PER).
In the beginning, completely different solvents were used. For example turpentine oil (around 1825), which removes greasy substances very well, but also smells accordingly. Then benzene, but toxic and flammable, just like benzine. In the 20th century carbon tetrachloride was used, which combines two positive properties: It does not burn and is even more fat-dissolving than benzine. New machines were developed for use, which cleaned, tumbled and dried. This was followed by perchloroethylene, which unfortunately attacks colours and prints. The use of trichlorotrifluoroethane CFC 113 and trichlorofluoromethane CFC 11 was banned in 1993 because they cause enormous damage to the ozone layer. To our day, it has been replaced by hydrocarbon solvents (HCS).
PROS & CONS
Water causes many fibres to soak up, some fabrics and fibres such as wool and silk are very sensitive when wet and can be damaged and deformed during washing. Wool can felt or shrink if treated incorrectly and silk fibres can rupture quickly. Since the fibres do not soak during textile cleaning, there is no change in shape, so this procedure is recommended for some garments so as not to put unnecessary damage to the fabric.
However, we must not forget that the use of chemicals is a heavy burden on the environment and should therefore reconsider every step of the cleaning process!
Sometimes one night out in the fresh air is enough…
Cashmere is the hair of a goat and similar to our hair: consisting of many horn flakes! Excessive friction can cause them to get stuck together and together with the natural wool grease they form small knots: the unloved pilling!
As long as pilling really only occurs in exposed areas (under the arms, on the wrist, handbag, seat belt, etc..), this is not yet a sign of inferior quality and can best be removed – after washing – with a wool comb. In the first days – as long as loose hair is knitted, pilling can occur more often, but should become less and less after combing.
Steam cashmere after washing so that the fibres settle better, so your item will rarely pill!