CARE

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

Most of our materials are natural fibres that deserve to be treated and cared for well. If you follow the care symbols in the garments and some advice, you will love it for a long time.

WASHING MACHINE

Please follow the care instructions carefully and choose the appropriate washing programme. If the washing symbol is crossed out, you should take this seriously!

If washing is allowed, it is best to always wash the clothes on the left and not overload the washing machine. Modern detergents are very effective, but can damage the fibres and pollute the environment. Natural materials are often washed with natural laundry detergents – pay attention to high-quality products that are as chemical-free as possible and follow their individual instructions for use and dosage. Less is often more! We prefer the drying in the open air, even if the washing instructions allow the tumble dryer. Drying can damage the fibres and also pollutes the environment unnecessarily!

One thing is for sure: it will become dry anyhow! Better not use softeners: our materials are of the highest quality and do not need to be washed synthetically “softer”! Nature will appreciate it!

DRY CLEANING

In classic textile cleaning, water is replaced by a solvent. The frequently used term for “dry” cleaning refers only to the fact that the solvents are anhydrous. The solvents used today are hydrocarbon solvents (KWL) and perchloroethylene (PER).

In the beginning, completely different solvents were used. For example turpentine oil (around 1825), which removes greasy substances very well, but also smells accordingly. Then benzene, but toxic and flammable, just like benzine. In the 20th century carbon tetrachloride was used, which combines two positive properties: It does not burn and is even more fat-dissolving than benzine. New machines were developed for use, which cleaned, tumbled and dried. This was followed by perchloroethylene, which unfortunately attacks colours and prints. The use of trichlorotrifluoroethane CFC 113 and trichlorofluoromethane CFC 11 was banned in 1993 because they cause enormous damage to the ozone layer. To our day, it has been replaced by hydrocarbon solvents (HCS).

PROS & CONS

Water causes many fibres to soak up, some fabrics and fibres such as wool and silk are very sensitive when wet and can be damaged and deformed during washing. Wool can felt or shrink if treated incorrectly and silk fibres can rupture quickly. Since the fibres do not soak during textile cleaning, there is no change in shape, so this procedure is recommended for some garments so as not to put unnecessary damage to the fabric.

However, we must not forget that the use of chemicals is a heavy burden on the environment and should therefore reconsider every step of the cleaning process!

Sometimes one night out in the fresh air is enough…

PILLING

Cashmere is the hair of a goat and similar to our hair: consisting of many horn flakes! Excessive friction can cause them to get stuck together and together with the natural wool grease they form small knots: the unloved pilling!

As long as pilling really only occurs in exposed areas (under the arms, on the wrist, handbag, seat belt, etc..), this is not yet a sign of inferior quality and can best be removed – after washing – with a wool comb. In the first days – as long as loose hair is knitted, pilling can occur more often, but should become less and less after combing.

Steam cashmere after washing so that the fibres settle better, so your item will rarely pill!